By Joe Kertzman
Author of such books as Wayne Goddard's $50 Knife Shop and The ask yourself of Knifemaking, Wayne Goddard takes you thru his confirmed means of making the standard operating knife. Goddard speaks the language of standard those that prefer to use knives they have made themselves.
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Additional resources for Building the Everyday Work Knife
Use your fingernail to feel for coarse grinding marks, nicks or anything that’s not smooth. ” The stress created in the quench can cause a crack to form at a stress riser, and they must be eliminated; 14) Do not use the flexible disc on the ricasso. That should be done with a fine belt on a platen or flat disc, or by hand as shown in the picture. The photo shows how a sheet of wet or dry paper is folded in half, clamped to a flat piece of steel and the ricasso is finished with handwork. This method takes a bit of time but the results are nice when taken down to a 600-grit finish; and 15) Be sure that there is a rounded junction where the tang meets the ricasso.
GATHER THE FOLLOWING MATERIALS: 1) One or two gallons of oil for quenching the blade. ” Used motor oil, cooking oil, cooking fat saved from the kitchen, automatic transmission oil or hydraulic oil will suffice. Various mixtures of some or all of the oils or fat will also work. The oil or fat should be in a metal container with a lid so that any potential flame-up can be snuffed out. Used for hardening the blade, my goop quench for the project knife consisted of one-third cooking fat saved from the kitchen, one-third paraffin and one-third hydraulic oil or automatic transmission fluid; 2) Blade material—precision-ground flat stock, lawnmower blades or worn-out files; 3) Handle material—wood or Micarta; 4) Coarse, medium and fine sandpaper; 5) Duro Quick Set epoxy; 6) Fine steel wool; 7) Knife board made of scrap hardwood, 3⁄4-inch thick, 2 inches wide, 12 inches long, shown being used in the accompanying photo; 8) Push sticks for backing up sandpaper.
Don’t put the torch tip directly in the heat hole, keep it an inch or so from the opening. Experiment with your torch to see where the flame is aimed to get the most heat. The heat chamber doesn’t need to go all the way through the length of the brick if you are forging only small blades. A half-brick that is drilled partway through is positioned at the back end of the forge. With the open end of the half brick against the heat chamber, blades as long as 10 inches can be heated for forging or quenching.